Spago … a chocolatey pinnacle

When I visited: March 2018

Location: Hawaii (Maui, within the Four Seasons Hotel)

Rating in the Michelin Guide: Not rated in the Guide

Dining Owl Hoot rating: 4/5

What to wear: Men – jeans or nice trousers and a shirt; women – jeans and a smart top or a smart dress

Ambience: Smart / casual

Course of the meal: Valrhona chocolate soufflé

If I could change one thing: Faster service at the start

Review:

Spago, part of the Wolfgang Puck chain which I also visited in LA, has a branch in the Four Seasons Hotel in Maui which unsurprisingly has a completely different vibe.

The service was a little slow at first, but then became more efficient and friendly. The ambient sea noise, together with live music from the lobby lounge, worked really well.

We started with a glass of (Piper Heidsieck) champagne each, then moved on to a glass of red Chianti Classico. The bread selection was pretty good – crackers, white, brown and red onion focaccia.

Our starters were the pear and burrata salad and suckling pig, both lovely and appropriately light (unusual for American restaurants). For mains, we went for the organic chicken with potato purée and the Indian-spiced mahi mahi on a bed of rice.

My Valrhona chocolate soufflé with guanduja chocolate sauce and coconut (substituted for coffee) ice cream was ridiculously good, and if I do say so myself, I think the coconut ice cream probably worked better than coffee would have. The Hawaiian interpretation of baked Alaska also included coffee ice cream, chocolate under a toasted meringue coating and a macadamia nut and chocolate sauce on side. We finished off with ‘Hana’ mint teas which were lovely.

 

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