Bror … hear it roar

DINING OWL AWARD2nd – for casual occasions

When I visited: August 2014

Location: Copenhagen

Team: Victor Wågman and Sam Nutter (Head Chefs)

Rating in the Michelin Guide: Bib Gourmand (=very good value) and Recommended

Dining Owl Hoot rating: 4/5

What to wear: Could go casual

Ambience: Feels like someone’s house – cosy, casual, relaxed

Course of the meal: 2 kinds of beetroot, radish, yellow strawberry, toasted sweet bread bits

If I could change one thing: Lose the horse wine

Review:

If you are in Copenhagen and fancy some high-quality food in a casual setting, this is the perfect choice. The food is heavy on the typically Danish light ‘snacks’.

I went with my partner Owl and we selected the dinner tasting menu. This started with several snacks: pea nasturtium and creme freche, and squid with button mushrooms. The Bror menu uses wines to fit each course; the first was a Chardonnay, to accompany our first starter of mackerel with tomatoes, coriander and tomato granita. Starter 2 was two kinds of beetroot with radish, yellow strawberry and toasted sweet bread bits; I am a fan of this kind of dining which combines several simple ingredients to make an interesting and memorable course that you wouldn’t think to put together yourself. This starter was accompanied with a very strange wine which tasted and smelled like horses (no joke) … perhaps an acquired taste even for this Owl.

The ‘pre-main’ was celeriac crisps dipped in apple puree with pork scratchings, with a lovely red Gamay wine (a bit of a relief after the horse-like second wine …). This was followed by a main course of cabbage wrap with pulled pork, mushrooms, mushroom puree, creme fraiche, garlic, plum, and plum salt … complicated but beautifully simple on the plate and not too heavy.

Dessert was accompanied by a rose sparkling dessert wine – this Owl does not tend to indulge in dessert wine, preferring the sweetness to be confined to the food itself, but this wasn’t overpowering and worked well with the dessert of blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, lavender ice cream (a personal Dining Owl favourite) and shortbread and berry jus. With our elderflower tea to finish we were given a petit four of milk chocolate with rose jelly inside – a wonderful way to finish an innovate and satisfying meal.

Get yourself to Bror if you are in Copenhagen – you won’t regret it.

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